Southern Morocco's most favored coastal town- and the one most easily reached from Marrakech- offers both a contrast and an escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. It's around 2 and a half hours away by taxi (£35 one way). In

Essaouira has managed to retain a laid- back timelessness rarely felt in the seething streets of Marrakech. It's a relaxing place and a charming one too. Sandy colored ramparts shelter a clean and bright medina built around french Piazzas, carved archways and whitewashed avenues and alleys.

Over the past decade Essaouira has become known as a centre for arts, crafts and music, attracting visitors to it's galleries and workshops and hosting an assortment of annual festivals. Apart from the well known gnawa festival in June, there is also a festival of flamenco and Arabo- Andalucian music in the autumn ( www.festivaldesandalousies.com) and a classical music festival each spring.

The fishing port, overlooked by grand fortifications, provides a constant source of supplies for local restaurants, while the wide sandy beaches to the south have put Essaouira on the windsurfing map at certain times of the year wen the winds are up. The town can also claim to be one of the cleanest and freshest in Morocco, with no vehicles in the medina, regular street sweeping and the Alizes breeze keeping the summer months cool.